Striker plate installation

For a broader introduction to the topic, check out our guide on electric locks. Electric strikes are similar to regular strike locks in that they are comprised of a strike that blocks the door latch. The impulse will also move the strike rather than the lock latch itself, as a key would do. One of the cool aspects of an electric strike lock is that it can be either fail-safe or fail-secure , depending on how you set it up.

A fail-safe lock is unlocked when the power to it is cut, whereas a fail-secure lock is locked when power is out, and unlocked when it is fed power.

This makes it the ideal lock for any door on which it can be installed not a glass door, as it needs to be in the frame. As mentioned, electric strike locks are relatively easy to install, as they generally just take the place of an existing strike lock. If not, though, you will need to cut out the mold in the wall, and drill it in. That gives you an allowance to tap two shims between the floor and the door bottom to hold it steady.

The 36inch Mark is replaceable if you use the height of other knobs in the house. At times you want to open the door completely.

Lift the door out of the opening. The hinges should stay on the door. Check the direction by which the door opens for easy installation. You would not want to start afresh after you have attached the latch plate on the wrong side. The chisel has to be on the scored line, perpendicular to the door and the bevel side of the chisel facing toward the mortise. Tap the chisel lightly using a hammer. Hold the chisel flat and use it to clean the waste so the mortise is the same depth as the hinge.

The door gas is to be supported so that it does not move during the process. The hinge edge has to face up and measure the positions of the hinges. Mark the top of the upper hinge, the bottom of the lower one, and the other side of the middle one. Measure and make similar marks on the jamb. One hinge has to be on the edge of the door with its top edge on the top mark.

Hold the hinge against the side of the door using one surface flush to the edge. Make a line using a pencil. It has to be along the other side of the hinge to mark the depth of the mortise. Avoid irregular edges and chipping and hold a chisel a bit parallel to the edge. Tap it into the wood with a hammer to remove a thin shaving.

Maybe they had a lot of them and lost all the deadbolt plates. They must have lost some of the plate screws, too, because in places they used drywall screws. Just think how much more exciting it would have been to discover deadbolt plates instead of striker plates!

Actually, using a curved strike plate for the deadbolt is a good idea. Your email address will not be published. By using this website you are consenting to the use of cookies. Most strikers are adjustable to enable you to compensate for a small amount of misalignment in the trunk panel.

It may be time to replace the trunk striker plate if you hear rattling noises, see trunk warning lights, or have to slam the trunk lid repeatedly to get it to stay shut.

Step 1: Inspect the latch and striker. Open the trunk and look carefully at the latch and the striker. You may have to pull off some pieces of plastic or cardboard trim to see them.

Operate the latch by inserting a screwdriver or other tool into the latch where the striker normally goes. You will be able to observe the operation of the latch that way. Resist the urge to get in the trunk with a flashlight and pull down the lid. That might turn out badly. Pay attention to the area where the latch engages the striker. Wear occurs where the metal parts engage, or at the rubber blocks that provide the tension. You will want to replace all the parts that show wear.

Step 2: Obtain the replacement part. With the new part in hand, you can engage the latch and see where and how well it grabs the striker. Step 3: Replace the striker. Most strikers are held on by a pair of bolts. Frequently, they will be countersunk fasteners with Torx socket heads. Simply unscrew the bolts and remove them. The replacement part is installed the same way. Step 4: Adjust the striker.

The mounting holes on the striker are usually bigger than the bolts to allow for some movement. With the mounting bolts loose, you can slide the striker around a small amount.